Country Nights: Discovering Québec

Head north from Montreal into Lanaudi�re's rustic countryside and in just over an hour you'll discover a luxurious spa nestled into a mountainside, local artisans, and a small but determined agritourism movement that connects visitors with the land and its history. Traveling east will bring you to Mauricie and the charming town of Trois-Rivi�res, along with perhaps the most idyllic massage setting you're ever likely to encounter. This is a side of Canada you won't want to miss - all within a scenic drive from Montreal's city center.

Mountainside Retreat
After a bustling weekend of activities in Montreal, your first stop north of the city should be La Source Bains Nordiques, a spectacular outdoor Nordic bath complex inspired by the bare rock of Mont Pontbriand. The eco-friendly destination features an array of Nordic baths, dry saunas, relaxation areas with soaring vistas and a dark room to completely unplug from life's stresses. The project was six years in the making and Canada's first geothermal spa. Massage therapy (including the Signature La Source 90-minute treatment) and bistro with fresh-pressed juices only add to the indulgence.

Sweet and Spiritual Indulgence
It was 1881 when the Trappist monks of Bellefontaine left France after the threat of eviction from an anti-religious government. At its peak, the monks numbered more than 175 and became famous for their Oka cheese. As numbers dwindled, they relocated to the foot of Montagne Coup�e in 2002 and have established a thriving market of local goods (including an irresistible dark chocolate-covered fruitcake). For those seeking a simple (and silent) respite inspired by St. Benedict, the beautifully constructed abbey offers a number of rooms with shared bathroom facilities at a suggested rate of $50 per night.

Down on the Farm
For an agriculture exploration and craft beer, head east to the Mauricie region and discover the family-owned Ferme Nouvelle-France. Anchored by a 130-year-old farmhouse, the property includes a variety of gardens, country market, craft shop and full-service restaurant where you can indulge in the family's signature gluten-free beer, made from ancient grains including millet, buckwheat and amaranth. Choose to explore on your own by foot or rent a golf cart to zip around the glorious fields and meadows.

Sweet Success
Deep in the heart of Mauricie you'll discover acres of red and silver maple trees that yield sweet sap that eventually becomes maple syrup. According to Dany N�ron, proprietor of Cabane Chez Dany (otherwise known as Dany's Sugar Shack), there are 10,000 syrup producers in Quebec.

His country setting provides the perfect backdrop for a traditional sugar shack meal, and for $20 you can't beat the all-you-can-eat feast of pea soup, meat pie, pickled beets, pork crisps, maple-smoked ham and a final heaping stack of pancakes doused in maple syrup. Head outside for maple taffy - a tempered maple candy hand-poured over shaved ice. Be sure to leave room in your suitcase for such gift shop contraband as Sortil�ge, a unique blend of Canadian whiskey and maple syrup.

Get Lost
Whatever the season, Le Baluchon eco-resort offers 1,000 acres of pristine natural beauty anchored by environmentally conscious furnishings throughout its five lodges and chalets. The resort abides by a philosophy of "slow design," incorporating local and reclaimed materials and traditional craftsmanship. Wipe away any misconceptions of doilies and heavy floral patterns as the aesthetic masterfully integrates modern and mid-century touches.

On the culinary front, executive chef Claude Girard harvests an abundance of wild herbs on property and leads foraging expeditions during summer months, but the pi�ce de r�sistance and reason alone to forge your way to this tucked-away haven are the two outdoor massage gazebos. Choose to be on a pier's edge with the serene sounds of chirping birds and a gently flowing stream, or opt for the tree house with the mist of a nearby waterfall wafting through gauze curtains. Either way, you'll never want to leave.