Queer in Cuenca: Discovering Ecuador’s Andean Hidden Gem

When most queer travelers set their sights on South America, the spotlight inevitably falls on cities like Buenos Aires, Bogotá, or Rio de Janeiro, celebrated for their massive Pride parades and established LGBTQ+ nightlife . Yet, tucked high in the Ecuadorian Andes lies Cuenca—a colonial-era city that defies expectations and quietly welcomes queer visitors with genuine warmth and understated pride.

Cuenca’s pastel-hued facades, UNESCO-listed historic core, and thriving expat community draw a steady stream of international newcomers. But what’s newly coming into focus is the city’s rise as a haven for LGBTQ+ travelers seeking an alternative to the region’s larger, more publicized queer destinations .

Ecuador’s progressive 2008 constitution was the first in the world to explicitly prohibit discrimination based on sexual orientation and gender identity, laying the groundwork for a more inclusive society . Since then, the country has legalized same-sex marriage and offers a legal path for transgender people to change their gender on official documents . While the capital Quito and the port city Guayaquil have more visible LGBTQ+ nightlife, Cuenca’s unique blend of safety, manageable size, and cosmopolitan spirit makes it stand out for queer travelers seeking connection and community rather than crowds .

Cuenca is consistently ranked among the safest cities in Ecuador, and its large expat population—many of whom are North American retirees and digital nomads, including many openly LGBTQ+ people—has helped foster a more open, tolerant city culture . The city’s relatively small size means that queer visitors often find themselves welcomed into local circles, with locals and expats mingling at cultural events, art galleries, and in the city’s many cozy cafes.

Cuenca may not have a sprawling gayborhood, but it has a number of spaces where LGBTQ+ people gather and thrive. Regular social meet-ups, such as monthly queer coffee nights and arts events, are organized by community groups like “Cuenca LGBTQ+” and the Ecuadorian Foundation for LGBT Rights . These gatherings offer a welcoming entry point for travelers seeking connection and up-to-date insights on local happenings .

Local bars like La Guarida—an independent cinema and arts venue—host inclusive film screenings, drag shows, and open-mic nights, drawing a diverse crowd of queer locals, expats, and allies. During the city’s annual Pride celebrations each June, the streets fill with rainbow flags and music, culminating in a vibrant parade through the historic center—smaller than those in major cities, but imbued with a sense of community and courage unique to smaller towns .

Cuenca’s café culture is as warm as its people. At Café de Nucallacta, you’ll find queer creatives and activists discussing local politics over espresso, while the riverside greenways host impromptu gatherings of LGBTQ+ youth. The city is also home to several queer-owned businesses, from artisan bakeries to bookstores, which have become quiet pillars of community safety and support .

Beyond its queer spaces, Cuenca’s cultural wealth is a draw in itself. The city is famous for its blend of Spanish and indigenous Cañari heritage, visible in its grand cathedrals, lively markets, and the intricate Panama hats woven in the surrounding countryside. The city’s art scene is flourishing; the Museo de Arte Moderno regularly features work by queer and trans Ecuadorian artists, while street art throughout the El Vado and San Sebastian neighborhoods explores themes of gender, migration, and resistance .

Food lovers can savor Ecuadorian specialties—like hornado and fresh ceviche—at LGBTQ+-friendly restaurants such as Goza Espresso Bar, where rainbow stickers in the window signal a safe and welcome space for all. Nightlife in Cuenca is low-key but lively, with bars like Wunderbar and Café San Sebas hosting drag karaoke, salsa nights, and themed parties open to everyone .

According to local activist Ana Lucía Vázquez, “Cuenca’s queer community is small but strong, and people look out for each other here. We may not have the numbers of a big city, but we have visibility—and that makes a difference” . Local organizations run workshops on queer history, safe spaces for transgender people, and outreach to rural LGBTQ+ youth, reflecting a commitment to both visibility and intersectionality.

Travelers report that being openly queer in Cuenca is met with curiosity and, more often than not, respect. While some rural attitudes remain conservative, the city’s younger generation is leading a quieter revolution in acceptance—an evolution visible in public art, Pride events, and the embrace of queer travelers from around the world .

Cuenca’s emergence as a queer-friendly destination is propelled by a unique combination of legal protections, a vibrant cultural scene, and the visible presence of openly LGBTQ+ locals and expats . Unlike larger, more touristic cities, Cuenca offers queer travelers the chance to participate in—and contribute to—a growing community where every Pride flag unfurled and every drag show staged is a testament to the city’s ongoing transformation.

For those seeking connection, creativity, and a sense of belonging amid the Andes, Cuenca stands ready to welcome you with open arms and open minds.